
Well, here we are at last with part 3 of the Second ST manual, the 
manual you should have been given when you bought your ST. Parts 1 
and  2  were featured on Doc Disks 6 and 7,  with a  break  during 
Disks  8  and 9 due to the huge Devpac Docs and many  Bard's  Tale 
pictures. As a result, this file was omitted until now. 

Part 3 of the manual includes Chapters 5,6,7 and 8,  detailing RAM 
disks,  Monitors (The Screen), Accessories and Word Processing. We 
hope  you find this manual to be useful and much more  informative 
than the pitiful manuals provided by good ol' Jack Tramiel.

Edited and merged into a single file by Sewer Rat.
  

                          Chapter Five: 
                            Ram Disks  
                           What it is.


RAM disks:   Just what is  a RAM disk?  Well,  first, what it is, 
and then what you can do with it. 

A  RAM  disk  is a program which creates a  virtual  disk  drive. 
'Virtual' mean 'as if' or 'fake'.  The computer thinks that there 
is another drive.  The program takes a chunk of memory (RAM)  and 
sets it for holding data.  The good thing is that this data moves 
back  and  forth very fast.  There's no bother  about  the  drive 
reading  the disk.  You know that your disk drive can  only  read 
data at the blinding speed of 250 KBits per second.  Blinding  to 
turtles.  If the data transfer occurs directly on chip, then that 
little bunny hops faster. 

RAM disks have all sorts of different names.  Disk Cache,  Buffer 
Disks,  Memory Disks,  Memory Cache,  Electronic  Disks,  Virtual 
Disks,  and then there's all the commercial products:  K-RAM,  to 
mention the best known,  and MAXIDISK,  ETERNAL,  Mike's  RAMDISK, 
RAMBUFFER.ACC,  and PROFILRAM,  to mention the best public domain 
versions (which are all much much better than K-RAM).

The  different kinds of RAM disks:  First of all is the  standard 
one:  either a program or an ACC;  you specify the size,  set  it 
up.  You  can't  change the size later.  Reset and  it  is  gone. 
Redefineable is better. You specify the size, set it up, and then 
change the size (smaller or larger).  "Reset proof" "Resident" or 
"resettable"  means that the contents will survive a  reset:  you 
reset (either to start up new ACCessories, delete others, or just 
hop out of a program, or you bomb out); no problem; everything is 
still there.  "Compressor" RAM disks will automatically  compress 
the  contents (and decompress to run or use);  this lets you  put 
for example nearly 500 KB of data into a 350KB ramdisk (amount of 
compression  depends on whether your files  are  text,  programs, 
etc).  And  "dynamic" RAM disks have no specific size:  You  just 
throw whatever you want into the drive icon and the RAM disk will 
grow to fit. As you delete, it reduces in size again. 

To make a RAM disk,  first load a RAM disk program (plenty in the 
PD disks)(double click on it). Then use INSTALL DISKDRIVE in your 
menu.  Some  RAM disks will demand that your disk have the  right 
name.  Others don't care and will work in any drive name.  Make a 
new disk drive Icon, the letter must be in capitals, either C, D, 
E,  F,  G, H, I, J, etc etc, go all the way to Z if you like. The 
description can be anything you like:  3rd Disk,  RAM  disk,  RAM 
disk,  Ramdrive,  Disk,  Karen's Disk,  or just blank;  that line 
doesn't matter.  Click on INSTALL.  It's now active.  Use it just 
like a second or third drive. Don't format it; you don't need to. 
You can then copy data from your real disk into your 'fake' disk. 
And  from  your  "fake" disk to your  real  disk.  You  can  open 
multiple windows from that RAM disk icon and move things from one 
to  the other.  Deleting is very fast.  If you want to keep  that 
icon on your desktop for next time, click SAVE DESKTOP.

Why  use a RAM disk?  If nothing else,  it is a very fast way  of 
copying  from one disk to another.  Copy your data into  the  RAM 
disk,  switch disks,  and then copy from the RAM disk to the  new 
disk.  No changing disks. Simply drag the DRIVE ICON into the new 
window.  If you have no ACC.essories,  then you can make a  large 
RAM disk,  up to 80 or 90% of your entire memory, and copy entire 
disks as often as you like. This doesn't work with copy-protected 
programs, of course. 

Copying in this fashion is called a FILE TRANSFER.       

The best use for a RAM disk is to run your programs.  Make a  RAM 
disk just big enough to hold 1st Word plus some files.  Open  the 
RAM disk, double click on 1st Word. instead of taking ten seconds 
or so to load,  it opens in less than two seconds.  Create  files 
and save them;  it is very fast.  There is no nonsense with  disk 
access times.  Pop out of 1st Word (QUIT),  you go out,  and then 
load in again. Out and back in seconds. It's great if you use big 
programs  which require frequent changes to look at disks or  use 
other programs in between. 

The  problem,  if  any,  with a RAM disk is that  you  have  less 
work  memory.  If you start with 400KB of memory and cut up  part 
and  call it a RAM disk which you make 300KB large (or  any  size 
you want), then your available working memory (what is left over) 
is only 100KB.  You can of course make very small RAM disks, only 
20 or 50KB large, or any size you like. 

Remember  that a .PRG often has some .RSC files (RESOURCE)  along 
with  it.  Those contain graphic notes and perhaps various  saved 
user specifications.  All of these must be transferred into  your 
RAM  disk (for example,  1st Word.PRG + 1st  Word.RSC,   and,  if 
you're going to print,  1st Print.PRG + 1st Print.RSC.)(Try this, 
you can print instantly, without switching disks or any nonsense. 
If you have a spooler as well, then it works great.)

Note that if you SAVE onto a RAM disk,  you have to transfer  the 
data  from  the RAM disk to your normal disk at the end  of  your 
work  session.  When  you turn off the power,  the RAM  disk  and 
everything  in  it  disappears.  If you  have  a  bad  electrical 
connection and your ST loses power,  then you lose data. If there 
are  big electrical storms,  the electricity may also  fail.  But 
of course,  when there's a big storm, it's more fun to sit on the 
balcony  with  a bottle of whiskey and watch the  lightning  (set 
your camera for infinite focus, f5.6, a wide angle lense (28mm or 
so),  use  a  manual release cable and let it catch  a  few  good 
rays).  If you are using a program which often crashes,  then you 
will lose your data in the RAM disk. 

Just like women,  RAM disks are different come in different ways. 
Some of them,  you set up,  and to get rid of them,  you have  to 
boot them out.  Some you have to live with their size; others you 
can change at will and specify the size. The best of all are ones 
which  can  be set up and then  taken  down,  without  rebooting. 
Others are more clever.  These are called RESIDENT RAM disks. You 
set it up,  re-boot,  it's still there.  And best of all, they're 
faithful;  it won't lose the data. These are the absolute best to 
have.  If  you  have  a crash,  if you decide to  set  up  a  new 
accessory,  or get rid of one,  just reset. The RESIDENT RAM disk 
will keep all your files. 

RESIDENT RAM disks are somewhat difficult to get;  a RESIDENT RAM 
disk  has to be written especially to your TOS.  For  example,  a 
German RESIDENT RAM disk,  written for German ST's,  usually will 
not run on a Danish TOS. 

MAXIDISK,  a  RESIDENT RAM disk with a built in file  compressor, 
will compress files automatically (especially text files) so that 
you  can hold over 800 Kb in a 500 Kb RAM  disk.  MAXIDISK  works 
fine  on Danish TOS.  Although some people complain that it is  a 
bit  slow (it takes .000003 microseconds longer to open  a  file) 
than other RAM disks,  it is the only one which compresses. It is 
also available without the compressor.

Another  great thing about Resident RAM disks is a trick which  I 
discovered.  Create your resident RAM disk in drive icon C.  Save 
desktop.  The desktop.inf file is saved not on the disk,  but  in 
the RAM disk.  Copy that file from the RAM disk to your real disk 
(so that it is present in both A and C drive).  NOW...  place all 
your accessories in the RAM disk.  Reset.  Voila!  They load  not 
from disk, but from the RAM disk. Which is of course faster. 

There  are  no problems with RAM disks and 1st  Word.  It  really 
makes it easier to use.  Put 1st Word,  1st Print,  and both  RSC 
files into the RAM disk.  Now, when you print something, there is 
no INSERT WP DISK nonsense; you can print directly from 1st Word. 
Try this;  it will convince you about RAM disks.  MMCOPY .ACC,  a 
public domain PRG, works great to transfer files from disk to RAM 
disk and back.  But of course, it's so easy to go in and out of a 
PRG with a RAM disk.
     
Some programs will not run in a RAM disk (ST Basic,  for example. 
But that doesn't run anywhere anyhow anytime).  Others work  very 
well,  much faster. Degas, with all of its silly disk operations, 
works very well on a RAM disk.  Flight Simulator is a pain in the 
neck on disk;  just when it gets interesting, the screen stops so 
that  the disk can load new scenery.  Just make a 350KB RAM  disk 
(Maxidisk can be much smaller) and copy everything over. Click on 
FSII.PRG. Instant startup and no silly disk loads; fly the jet in 
and at and over San Francisco. Smooth operations.

If you've noticed then,  using the ESC to switch disks in A drive 
and using RAM disks,  there is no need for a single drive user to 
have a B drive icon. 

For  those who think ST's are great,  just look at the Amiga  RAM 
disk.  It is always available. It expands as large as needed, and 
automatically reduces when you delete material out of it.  Always 
resident. 

There  has  appeared a new RAM disk from  TOMMY  software:  reset 
proof and dynamic. If it compressed as well, I would be happy.

                 End of Chapter Five: RAM disks.

        ====================== * * ======================


                   Chapter Six: The Monitor 
                (fooling around with your screen)
  
ICONS: it is curious that these little things are called "icons." 
The  word comes from Greek and means "representation;" it  mostly 
now means a religious pictorial representation,  or an object  of 
uncritical devotion (for example "$"). 

An icon is desktop image which makes it easier for you to  manage 
data.  The  different icons has particular rules:  a folder  icon 
acts only as a folder.  You can't make an icon do something else. 
This  makes  it  easier to remember  rules;  instead  of  writing 
obscure  command lines,  you simply drag the different  sorts  of 
objects  around the desktop and the various commands are  carried 
out automatically. 

There are three different kinds of icons:  DISK icons, which look 
like file drawers:  click on them twice to open.  FILE icons  can 
look  like stacks of papers;  PROGRAM icons look like nothing  in 
particular.  FOLDER icons act like folders; they can contain both 
FILES  and PROGRAMS;  folder icons are used to manage your  data. 
There is also a WASTEBASKET icon;  anything (except a DRIVE icon) 
that  is dragged onto the wastebasket is deleted.  That  is  much 
easier and more intuitive than some bizarre set of commands  such 
as "DEL C:/WRK/*.CFG (ENTER)", which means just delete.

You can experiment and find out that you can give any file a  PRG 
ending and its icon will change to look like a program icon. Just 
try to start this new "program" of yours.  Nothing  happens;  the 
data is not a program, even though its icon looks like one.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
                          
DESKTOP.INF:  You will notice that when you click on SAVE DESKTOP 
(with  an unprotected disk),  a little file is created  which  is 
called  DESKTOP.INF.  This has some very  interesting  abilities. 
Assuming  that your desktop was the way you liked it  (icons  had 
your names on them,  icons and windows were in the right  places, 
etc),  then by having DESKTOP.INF on your start up  disk,  things 
will always be to your liking. 

You can edit (change) this file even more. WORDPLUS, ridiculously 
enough,  can't open Desktop.inf.  Oh, well. Dig out your 1ST WORD 
(and switch to WP MODE off) or nearly any other wordprocessor  or 
text editor.  Load DESKTOP.INF.  Don't try and use WP  MODE.  You 
will see the following:



(Line)
1   #a020000 
2   #b000000 
3   #c7770007000600070055200505552220770557075055507702111103 
4   #d                                              
5   #E 83 03  
6   #W 00 00 30 01 1D 17 08 C:\*.*@ 
7   #W 00 00 10 01 1D 17 00 @ 
8   #W 00 00 00 04 26 0E 00 @ 
9   #W 00 00 0F 0A 15 0B 00 @ 
10  #M 00 01 00 FF C 350 Ram Disk@ `@  
11  #M 00 00 00 FF A Disk Drive@ @  
12  #T 00 06 02 FF   Waste Basket@ @  
13  #F FF 04   @ *.*@  
14  #D FF 01   @ *.*@  
15  #G 03 FF   *.APP@ @  
16  #G 03 FF   *.PRG@ @  
17  #F 03 04   *.TOS@ @  
18  #P 03 04   *.TTP@ @  
19  #G 03 04   WORDPLUS.PRG@ *.DOC@  


(I  have added a line number for reference.  My keyboard and  TOS 
don't  produce a backwards slash;  I have a Danish  (o with a 
slash) instead.  The  "@" 
symbol (which usually means "price per piece") isn't supported by 
my printer driver, so I don't what how it will appear, if at all, 
on paper. This is my DESKTOP.INF, yours will certainly differ. It 
has also been converted to WP mode; don't try to use it.)

What does all this mean?

Line 1:     The settings for the SET RS232 CONFIG.
Line 2:     Settings for the INSTALL PRINTER.
Line 3:     Colors and Key Repeat from CONTROL PANEL.
Line 4:     Not yet in use. 
Line 5:     Saves SHOW DIRECTORY command.
Line 6-9:   Determines how and where windows will open (fx,  line 
            6  has  the  command  for a window  for  Drive  C  to 
            open)(C:\*.*@) 
Line 10,11: DRIVE ICONS.  The coordinates,  values,  identifiers, 
            and label (name on screen).
Line 12:    TRASH CAN ICON. The  coordinates, values, identifiers, 
            and label (name on screen).
Line 13,14: Commands for which files/folders will have icons.
Line 15-18: Which files can be run as programs,  and what kind of 
            program they are: GEM, TOS, TTP.
Line 19:    Which  programs  are INSTALLED APPLICATIONS  and  the 
            type  of files for each (fx Line  19,  "WORDPLUS.PRG@ 
            *.DOC@"  Wordplus  has been set up to load  when  any 
            .DOC (*.DOC) is double clicked).  If there are futher 
            INSTALL APPLICATIONS,  then they will appear as extra 
            lines.

To  change the name of your WASTE BASKET,  simply edit  line  12. 
First,  ON A UNPROTECTED FORMATTED DISK,   click SAVE DESKTOP (or 
GEM DESKTOP) from your menu.  Your desktop configuration will  be 
saved  to your disk in a file called DESKTOP.INF .  Now load  1st 
Word,  switch off WP MODE, and open this file (open DESKTOP.INF). 
Half  way down the middle,  in line 12,  you'll see the old  name 
'WASTE BASKET' or whatever.  Carefully!  delete those letters and 
write  in your new name (AFFALD,  GARBAGE,  DELETE,  PAPER  WOLF, 
BLACK HOLE,  GOODBYE,  WC,  TEMPS PERDU,  4th DIMENSION, NIEMEHR-
SEHEN,  SKATTEVSNET)  etc.  There's  only enough  space  for  12 
letters;  experiment. It is not necessary to use capital letters. 
Click  SAVE  FILE.  Re-boot.  If you did  it  right,  your  waste 
basket has a new name.  If you did it wrong, just delete the file 
and start over again. 

You  can  also rename your disk drives here (lines  10  and  11), 
instead of using the INSTALL DRIVE from the desktop.  This method 
has the advantage of allowing small letters.  Just delete the old 
name and write in your new name (maximum of 12  letters).  Drive, 
Disk Station,  My disk,  Top and Bottom Drive or Left and  Right, 
Harddisk,  Ramdisk,  Virtual Disk, Library, Hot Mama!, 500KB, The 
Big One, or just blank.) Save and reboot.
 
You can also change line 6, by changing *.* to *.PRG, so that the 
window   will  only  display  any  file  with  the  ending   .PRG 
(especially useful on a harddisk,  where you keep only  programs, 
and don't want to see all the silly .RSC and .DAT files).

Furthermore,  Line 19 can also be used to let your system look in 
another  drive  for an installed program.  If you try to  run  an 
installed program from Drive B (C,D,  etc) and the program is  in 
Drive A,  TOS will often sucessfully look "upwards" into Drive A. 
But if the program is in Drive B,C,  etc,  and you start the file 
in A, then TOS won't think about looking "downwards." By adding a 
pathfile  to  the program name,  you can have the  program  in  a 
second drive (your harddisk or ramdisk) and just double click  on 
the  text file in drive A.  I place Wordplus in a  folder  called 
"WP_TOOLS". Thus I would write: 

C:/WP_TOOLS/WORDPLUS.PRG@ *.DOC@  

(Note: the slash / should be a backwards slash.)

This tells TOS,  when any .DOC file is clicked anywhere,  to look 
for WORDPLUS in Drive C, and in a folder called WP_TOOLS. 

And  last  of all.  You've noticed that once you've  installed  a 
program,  it stays installed. You can't "de-install" ("de-stall"? 
"un-stall"? "out-stall"? Whatever.) You usually need to just make 
a new DESKTOP.INF.  No more.  Just open up that doggie,  find the 
line (19 etc) and delete it. Save. It's no longer installed.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 
     
DO  NOT  DO ANY OF THESE EXPERIMENTS ON YOUR BOOT  DISK.  Use  an 
extra disk for this experiment.  If it works,  fine. Copy the new 
DESKTOP.INF to your boot disk.  If it doesn't,  just turn off the 
machine  and insert your old boot disk.  Back to the  laboratory, 
Herr Doktor.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 
     
You  don't have to go through all this to make your  desktop  for 
different disks. Just copy the DESKTOP.INF onto the other disks. 

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 

If  your desktop gets that annoying habit of opening new  windows 
directly  on  top  of  other  ones,   that  is  because  of  your 
DESKTOP.INF.  Just  place  the first window where it  should  be. 
Place the second one where it should be. Same with the third. The 
fourth  too.  Now close those windows one at a time (if you  want 
opened  windows  at boot time,  open them now).  Now  click  SAVE 
DESKTOP.  Desktop.inf  will now remember where you like your  new 
windows to show up.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 


The names of files and folders is practically up to the user. You 
can  write anything you like,  except small  letters.  Underlines 
create spaces, and ESCape deletes the whole line. 

Be  careful  not to use an underline in the directory  line  (the 
line at the top of the Select window);  this crashes the ST.  

The  three  letter  EXTENDER at the end of  the  file  name  (for 
example, .ACC, or .DOC, or .BAK) is also pretty much to the user, 
except  a few are reserved for the computer (for  example,  .PRG, 
.ACC, .TOS). Give a file the extender .PRG and it will be given a 
PRG  icon,  regardless  of it being program  data  or  not.  Many 
programs require that their files have specific  extenders.  Look 
at  the  other  files in the program  and  use  those  extenders. 
Folders can be named anything except AUTO;  the contents of  AUTO 
folders  (programs)  are run automatically when  the  machine  is 
booted. 

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 

     What are those .RSC for?  That's where info about the PRG  is 
kept.  It  can be changed and then your PRG will act  differently. 
For example,  when someone in Quezon imports 1st Word,  they  open 
the  .RSC file and translate all the English into Tagalog so  that 
the user gets his local language. It's no big deal to do this. But 
that's  why  you need to keep the .RSC files along with  the  .PRG 
when it loads.  

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 
     
ASCII vs Wordprocessing format. To write a text file which can be 
opened from the DESKTOP and read like a normal file,  switch  off 
the WP MODE (Word Processing Mode) and then SAVE.  Your file will 
be  stored  as an ASCII file,  in standard  characters  (ASCII  = 
American  Standard Codes for Information Interchange)  There  are 
two kinds of formats for text files: either wordprocessing format 
(and  each  specific wordprocessor has its  own  special  command 
codes for bold, underline, etc; these codes are stored along with 
the file),  or ASCII formats,  which is bare bones. Just text. No 
fancy stuff. No bold, nothing. Just letters. 

Storing  files  as ASCII is useful for making READ  ME  files  or 
indexes to data on disk.  If you are going to transfer text files 
to another computer which may not have the same wordprocessor  as 
yours,  then you MUST transfer it as ASCII format; otherwise they 
will  only see nonsense on their screen (their wordprocessor  can 
not  understand  your wordprocessor's  special  codes).  However, 
style commands, such as underlining or BOLD will not be transfer-
red.  Just use that computer's WP FIND AND REPLACE option to  put 
those  back in again.  You can mark such places in your  text  by 
writing a unique group of words for each command, such as *BOLD*, 
and then using FIND AND REPLACE.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 
     
To copy or delete a whole group of files,  just DRAG a box around 
them;  this selects all.  You can also use SHIFT and click on the 
individual  icons.  This lets you select a group of  icons  which 
aren't together. If you miss one, then they all revert to normal. 
This also works in reverse.  If there are 27 icons on screen, and 
you  want  every one except the one in the  middle,  DRAG  a  box 
around everything so that everything is black.  Then press  SHIFT 
and  click on the icon you don't want.  It turns white.  This  is 
called   DE-SELECTING  (that  is  certainly  not  good   English. 
Computers were obviously developed by Californians.) 

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 
     
AUTO folders are special. Any program in the a folder called AUTO 
will  be  automatically loaded when you boot.  Just  make  a  NEW 
FOLDER, call it AUTO. Fill it up with all the spoolers, ramdisks, 
utility  programs,  etc.  This works well,  except with  programs 
which  have a lot of graphics (like 1st Word).  A Boot disk  with 
twenty  PRGs in the auto folder and six ACCessories will  take  a 
looooong time to open;  your computer has to  read,  verify,  and 
load all of them. 

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 

There  is now a program which will load a GEM program  (AUTOGEM). 
Just copy this into your AUTO folder, and, when you boot up, your 
chosen GEM program will automatically start up.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

By pulling down the CONTROL PANEL and moving the three color bars 
to the other end, the monochrome screen will invert colors (white 
on black). Move them back again to reverse. 

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

If you get a slight flimmering on the screen, this can usually be 
fixed by tightening the monitor plug into the ST.  Just jam it in 
as tight as you can. 

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

If you have one of the newer ST monitors, you can change the size 
of  the  screen (larger or smaller).  Just fool around  with  the 
screws on the back of the monitor.  You can increase the size  of 
the screen so that there is very little black border.  It is done 
like  this  to compress the screen image and thus  create  higher 
density (a better image).  Increasing your image is not going  to 
mean  that  you can see more lines.  There will be some  loss  of 
image density. It is possible to do this with the older monitors, 
but you need to open the monitor casing. 

A German word processor,  2nd Word,  cleverly is able to show  an 
entire page on screen by the simple trick of turning the  monitor 
sideways.  By standing it on its side, you get a more normal page 
size. 

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

About monitor radiation.  All monitors, being cathode ray genera-
tors, produce a large electromagnetic field around them. Exposure 
of over three hours per day can lead to health  problems:  mostly 
headaches.  There is also sleeplessness,  heart disturbance,  and 
flimmering vision (sounds like being in love).  Longrange effects 
are unknown (birth defects,  cancer, genetic variation, etc.)  An 
independant  comparsion  of  17 monitors by  a  respectable  West 
German  consumers  test institute found the ST  SM124  and  SANYO 
CRT41  to have the least electromagnetic radiation and  therefore 
be the safest on the market.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Last  things  are always cleaning.  The best way  to  clean  your 
screen  is with a few drops of eyeglass cleaning fluid:  you  can 
get  a  little  bottle  of the stuff at  any  eyeglass  store  or 
drugstore.  Eyeglass  stores usually give away small sample  bot-
tles. Really takes off the greasy fingerprints and reduces glare. 


                 End of Chapter Six: The Screen.

        ====================== * * ======================



                    Chapter Seven: ACCESORIES 


ACCESSORIES: Because the ST TOS can't multitask, it allows a sort 
of  ability  to access certain other programs within  a  program. 
These are ACCessories (those files with the ending .ACC,  such as 
CLOCK.ACC).  An  .ACC  is a special kind  of  program.  It  loads 
automatically from the disk into memory at BOOT time. While using 
any  GEM  program,  you can always get instant  access  to  those 
accessories. You can gain access to this PRG (use it) by pointing 
with  the mouse at the ATARI logo in the upper left  corner.  The 
menu  drops down and you can select the accessory by clicking  on 
it. It will then appear in the middle of the screen.

If your main PRG is a GEM program (MENUS,  WINDOWS, etc, like 1st 
Word),  then you can always use an ACCessory within that PRG.  

An ACC.essory will not load if:

     1) the EXTENDER is not  .ACC (it could be .ACX, etc).  
     2) the .ACC is inside a Folder.
     3) it is faulty (missing data, bad copy, etc). 
     4) its .RSC file is missing or faulty.  

If the extender is other than .ACC,  just use SHOW INFO from  the 
FILES menu to change (edit) the extender from .ACX back to .ACC.
     
You can't load more than 6 ACC's at one time;  the ST will  crash 
(actually, it just won't start up). 

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 

Note  that old CONTROL.ACC (16KB large) requires two  ACC  spaces 
(one for the CONTROL PANEL and one for INSTALL PRINTER).  The new 
Control Panel (20KB) solves some of this problem by bringing  the 
printer install options and the RS232 emulator into one ACC.   

The  control panel can also be used to invert the screen  colors. 
On monochrome systems,  pulling the color bars all the way to the 
end will invert colors (white to black) and back again.

The ROCP.ACC,  the Read Only Control Panel, is great. After a few 
months,  you never change the settings in the control panel.  Yet 
the  thing takes up 20 KB of space.  The ROCP reads  the  control 
panel  information from the DESKTOP.INF file and sets it up in  a 
4Kb file which takes up only one slot. It doesn't take up so much 
KB space.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 
     
If you run out of memory, you can create more space by 'switching 
off' your accessories.  Click once on your ACC file,  and ask for 
SHOW INFO (VIS INFO).  Change the directory extender (file  name) 
from WHATEVER.ACC to WHATEVER. AC1, for example. (or .AC2 or .ACX 
or anything except .ACC) then reboot.  Your ACCessories will  not 
be loaded.  To start them again,  go to your desktop,  click, and 
change  the name back to WHATEVER.ACC.  Reboot.  If you have  any 
AUTO  folders,  change the folder name to something else or  open 
the  folder  and  change the .EXTENSIONS from  .PRG  to  .PR1  or 
whatever.  To avoid all this opening and closing, I keep an extra 
disk with no ACC's or AUTO folders and boot with that (especially 
to  make very large RAMdisks.) Another possiblility is an  ACCes-
sory LOADER PRG; during BOOTING, it asks you which ACCs should be 
loaded. It then automatically changes the extender. 

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 
     
Another useful utility is a FREE RAM indicator;  there's several, 
with all sorts of names. These are small ACC's which tell you how 
much memory is free (availabel).

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 

Frankly,  I don't think much of clocks on screen.  They eat up  a 
lot  of memory (a simple digital clock in the upper corner  needs 
30 KB).  They have to be set every time. Atari made a good choice 
by not putting clocks into the machines: less work, lower prices. 
I've  not  yet noticed a reason for having a  clock.  Many  users 
stick little clocks (cost about 1 $) on the front of the  monitor 
(over  the  ATARI logo).  I have.  It's always  there;  needs  no 
attention. Stopwatch and date included, which is handy when using 
the modem or timing operations.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 

The  same  with  calculators.  They seem  great,  but  it's  more 
practical  to  keep a small solar calculator stuck in  your  disk 
box.  Always  there.  If  you  absolutely will  have  one  as  an 
accessory,  then  there are scientific calculators,  normal  ones 
with  and  without memory,  and even a  HP-41  (Hewlett  Packard) 
available as PD.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 

And notepads as well.  It's just more practical to keep a  pencil 
and some note paper on your desk.  Write down file names, etc. It 
is  precisely  when  you most need a notepad that you  are  in  a 
situation in which you can't use it.  The groove on top of the ST 
makes a great place to park pencils. 

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 

Speedmouse.ACC is very good. It lets your mouse move twice as far 
over  the screen;  a simple wrist movement moves the  mouse  from 
one corner to the other. This reduces the mouse movements and you 
don't  need  as much desk space.  I have gotten addicted  to  the 
Speed Mouse; if I boot without it, then it feels like swimming in 
honey.


               End of Chapter Seven: ACCessories.

        ====================== * * ======================


                  Chapter Eight: Wordprocessing 
   

The first version of this section was easier to write:  1ST  WORD 
was  the standard (and nearly the only wordprocessor) on the  ST. 
But now, there are dozens. 1ST WORD, that simple word cowboy, has 
gotten updated into a new program  (Wordplus).  WORDPLUS,  SIGNUM 
(1+2), TEMPUS, WORDPERFECT, BECKERTEKST, are all standards. There 
are at least 15-20 more wordprocessors and text editors.

You must chose your wordprocessor like you choose any other tool. 
An ax is no good for anything but chopping wood. You don't need a 
professional wordprocessor,  no matter how much the girls will be 
impressed, if you don't need it. 

First there are two kinds of word tools: word processors and text 
editors.  

A  text editor works just with plain text:  no  fancy  stuff.  No 
reformats,  no bold or underline,  just ASCII, the English alpha-
bet.  This  is  good for editing program codes  and  for  writing 
straight text.  TEMPUS is the best:  unbelieveably fast,  lots of 
options, and only 60KB (you must see it in action. NO wordproces-
sor comes close).

A  wordprocessor is for fancy writing.  Nice blocked  paragraphs, 
underlining and other style commands,  automatic  pages,  WYSIWYG 
display.  (What You See Is What You Get, pronounced "wissy-wig".) 
There are simple wordprocessors (like 1ST WORD V1.06).  There are 
ones with dictionaries, which check your spelling for you. Others 
have graphics capability,  so that you can put pictures into  the 
text.  There are WPs with outliners;  you are able to  manipulate 
your  text around as blocks,  instantly restructuring the  entire 
text. Some print in graphics mode, so that you get extremely good 
printouts,  even  with a cheap (okay,  okay,  your printer  isn't 
cheap.  How  about..)...  "economical" printers.  Then there  are 
DTPs, Desktop Publishers, which allow you to do magazine layout. 

All have limitations and weakness.  If they have  graphics,  then 
they don't have outliners.  They print in graphics mode,  but  no 
dictionary.  Dictionaries  are  a pain in the neck  to  use  with 
large texts.  Some have only one font (one kind of  alphabet)(ten 
fonts is not much.  Macintosh and IBM DTP packages sometimes have 
1,800 fonts.  Any printing company works with tens of  thousands) 
We  have gotten some nice wordprocessors this Winter for the  ST; 
none are yet truely excellent. 

The  ST still has some time to go before it has a very  good  WP. 
But  it isn't so bad.  SIGNUM was written for the  ST;  there  is 
nothing like it for any other machine.  WORDPLUS is flexible  and 
strong. There are rumors of a WP version of TEMPUS; that would be 
great news to professional writers.  Habatext and Beckertext  are 
two other popular wordprocessors.

(Note:  Calligrapher,  which had such good reviews,  was  dropped 
this Spring; it had lots of problems.)

This makes this section difficult.  The previous versions assumed 
everyone had the same wordprocessor.  Now, most don't. I can only 
write  a few things about general wordprocessing tools which  are 
in the PD collection.  Specific tips for wordprocessors is nearly 
useless. See the BBS to find others who use your WP.

Rules for buying a new wordprocessor: 

1)   Can I convert my texts from the old one to the new one? 
2)   Can  I  read other texts from other  wordprocessors  (either 
     straight or with a simple conversion)?
3)   Can I print out with the new program? This isn't a joke: the 
     ST  doesn't have a standard printer driver.  Someone has  to 
     sit down and actually write a program (or redefine a printer 
     program)  so that your particular printer will print  out  a 
     text.  In the beginning,  there were quite a few people  who 
     couldn't  get their printers to print Danish,  for  example. 
     And  just because the printer will print out one  text  from 
     one program doesn't mean that it will print yours.  And just 
     because  a Juki printer will print,  your Seikosha may  not. 
     And just because...  etc.  Seeing is believeing.  Go to  the 
     store  and  print  out  a document  with  all  the  possible 
     characters, functions, styles, graphics, etc.
4)   Will  the  new program get along with  all  of  my  standard 
     programs? Will it crash if I use my RAM disk, file transfer, 
     accessories, etc? 
5)   If  the  salesperson is bothered by  you  asking  all  these 
     questions,  imagine how bothered he will be when it  doesn't 
     work  and you come back.  It will then take him at  least  a 
     week  to  figure  out how to solve the  problem.  If  he  is 
     bothered,  find a better store.  Maybe you pay more, but you 
     get service and support.
6)   Will it produce ASCII files?  Can I write a file and save it 
     in non-wordprocessing mode? Sometimes, you will need to have 
     such files. 

Things  to  look for:  Graphics and multiple  formats  (not  just 
Degas,  for example).  Footnotes (both at both of page or end  of 
chapter).  Blocks  (moves either in window or to other  windows). 
Size  limits  to blocks (ten  pages  maximum?)  Styles.  Multiple 
windows.  Loads  and  saves ASCII  text.  Saves  without  closing 
window.  Scrolling  speed.  Prints  either whole  text  or  block 
without closing window.  Find, Replace, and with multiple strings 
(not just one at a time).  Hyphenation  (orddeling).  Dictionary. 
Add and edit main dictionary.  Outliner.  Define F-keys. Redefine 
keyboard. Works from Ram disk or harddisk. Size. Printer drivers. 
Documentation.  Multiple  fonts/sizes.  Design  your  own  fonts. 
Intergrate  with other programs (can your database create a  file 
which  the wordprocessor can read?  Can you mix your  spreadsheet 
and WP?)

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     

Some general notes about wordprocessors and printers: 

To  print  a  long text without tying  up  the  computer,  use  a  
SPOOLER PRG (a PD PRG).  The standard one is 30KB large (these of 
course can be made any size you like)(it was written by a  Dane). 
This  sets  aside 32 KB or so in the memory as  an extra  printer 
buffer (BUFFER = memory space)(your printer has only about 1 or 2  
KB buffer).  When you send your text to the printer, the computer  
reads it from the disk into the spooler,  which will then feed it 
to the  printer.   Up to about ten pages of full text fit into  a 
spooler. You can exit 1st Word if you like,  and work with  other  
programs.   But don't turn off the computer.   Set up the spooler 
by   creating a folder called AUTO and then placing  the  spooler 
PRG  in  there.  

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

If your paper sometimes starts to roll up in the printer,  as  my 
SEIKOSHA  does every once in a while,  then a long flat piece  of 
wood, about 7cm wide, will keep the outgoing paper unable to curl 
back into the printer.  (The Seikosha is otherwise  good:  prints 
100 pages without overheating,  always nice,  correct letters. 

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     

     
When  working with various texts,  I've found it works  best  the 
following way.  First open each text in different windows.  Place 
the  main  text  (target text) full  screen  (covering  up  those 
useless F KEYS and FONT TABLE).  Move it down just a bit so  that 
there  is  space for a grey directory bar.  Now  open  the  other 
texts,  all of them; zoom each down to long vertical strips, just 
wide enough so that the directory bar can tell you which text  is 
which.  Place all three up at the top, behind the target text. To 
call up a text,  just click on it.  You can see text in a  strip. 
Create a block and CUT; that cuts also the part of the text which 
is beyond the window. Click back to target text and paste. If you 
want  to see the whole text,  just click on its expansion  button 
(upper  right square).  It then fills the screen.  Another  click 
reduces it again. 

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 

Notes on particular wordprocessors:

Notes  on  SIGNUM!  

Persons have actually bought the ST simply because of the program 
SIGNUM!.   It  was  written for the ST and is  unique;  no  other 
computer  has  something like it.  Signum is excellent  for  fine 
printing  jobs;  think  of the investment in the  program  as  an 
upgrade for your printer.  Characters,  instead of  being printed 
out in normal character printing mode,   are printed  in Graphics 
mode; it is drawn, dot by dot, with multiple passes. A character, 
instead  of  having  a dozen dots or   so,   will   have  several 
hundred.  Your 9 pin printer, even a cheap one, will thus produce 
characters which are better than those of a 24 pin  printer; a 24 
pin printer will print better than a laser printer. It is slow to 
print (8 minutes per page with a nine pin printer,  but faster on 
a  24 pin printer).  Signum also prints in proportional  spacing. 
Signum  allows  you to place a character nearly anywhere  on  the 
screen: this is excellent for mathematical formulas and technical 
diagrams;  its excellent font editor allows you to draw your  own 
characters very easily, requiring no special knowledge. Have lots 
of memory; Signum uses 5KB per  page. If you need to print a  few 
 pages  with professional  quality and various fonts, then Signum 
is the best.  However, it is not very good  for actually writing. 
Screen  redraws  are rather dramatic  and  confusing,  you  can't 
simply  spring back and forth in texts.  Blocks are difficult  to 
use;  reformatting also is difficult and slow;  there is only one 
screen  (no  multiple  windows).  If you  print  long  texts,  be 
prepared  to  wait a very long time.  Fifty pages on a  nine  pin 
printer can take about seven hours.

There is a new version of Signum now,  Signum!2.  I haven't  used 
it, so no report.

Write  your text on a good wordprocessor and then print  out  the 
final  version with SIGNUM.  Use REPLACE to turn all Danish  into 
aa,  ae,  and oe in 1st Word/Wordplus.  Then save as ASCII.  Load 
into SIGNUM,  and use its REPLACE function to convert those  back 
again. 

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

A few hints for 1st Word/Wordplus:

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     

There is an excellent German book to Wordplus (Tips and Tricks to 
Wordplus); this covers many of the options of the program. 

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     
    
               INDENT/OUTDENTS:    to    indent    whole  
               paragraphs (for extended quotes),  hit F9  
               before starting the paragraph.   Hit  F10  
               to  reformat the  entire  paragraph.  The  
               INDENT  is  cancelled  after  using   the  
               RETURN key at the end of the paragraph.  
 
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  
 
5.1 OUTDENTS: To write a paragraph with a number (like this one),  
              write the first line, and then, at the second line,  
              hit F9.
 
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  
    
#  LINES / PAGE:   the program automatically assumes an  American 
size  page (8 1/2x11 in.).  Change this by using LAYOUT from  the 
FILE dropdown menu. ( DIN A4 = 8 x 11 3/4 in.)   

     Single sheet european = 65  lines/page  
     Fan sheet,  european  = 72 lines/page  

The   RULER   LINE at the top of the page is set for   PICA   (10  
characters  per  inch)  (1st WORD has  66  characters  per  line; 
WORDPLUS correctly has 65).  

There  are ACCs which let you set up the printer:  you can  print 
out in elite,   condensed,  etc.  Condensed is useful for  making 
quick printouts which leave you room on the page for notes,  etc.   

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .   

When  printing,   you  can have ( Side # in Danish)(Seite  #   in  
German)  instead of  ( Page # ) (or just plain #,  or  even  -#-, 
which gives for example -7- ) at the bottom of  the  page.   Just 
ask for the Page Layout function,  set cursor  on  Page  #  line, 
punch  ESC  to clear,   and write "page #"   in   your   favorite 
language.  You can also put this anywhere on the page,  not  just 
the  center,   but also on the left or right side,   or top   and  
bottom.   

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
   
If you are bothered by the default of the lines/page in the print 
option, then create a blank file with your usual layout, plus how 
ever  many (or few) tabs you want.  Save this as  NONAME.DOC  and 
open  it everytime for a new file and then use SAVE AS to  rename 
it.

HS  told  me that he makes several blank files with  the   proper  
formatting  information  (headers,  lines per  page,  tab  marks, 
characters per line,  etc) for different kinds of documents  (one 
for  plain text,  another one  for  letters,  messages,  business 
letters,  etc);   when he opens a new file,  he calls up one   of 
these,  writes to it,  and then uses SAVE AS... This works pretty  
well.  

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 
  
If you use Style commands a lot,  then note that when a  menu  is 
pulled down,   the keyboard doesn't work.   Not  quite.   Nothing  
happens on screen,   but when the menu goes up,   all those typed 
in  commands  are carried out.   Go ahead,   make a block,   pull 
down  a  menu,   add in several style commands by punching the  F 
keys. Click  RESTYLE, and everything is carried out.  
 
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 
  
DOUBLE  COLUMNS:   1ST Word can only think in in one  column.  To  
make  double,   or  even  more columns,   you have  to  fool  the 
printer.  Basically, just run the paper through the printer again 
and again.
     
Make  the  first column ending at tab space 27 and  then   print.  
Then  make the second column,  also with 27 characters per  line. 
Use   the  PRINT  option  to define the left hand  margin   (LEFT 
MARGIN  OFFSET  set to 46) to the middle of the page,   and  then 
reinsert  paper and reprint.
  
An  easier way is to do the same as the last  paragraph,  but  to  
use radical indents,   starting at tab 38.   This is more visible 
on  screen.   Set both windows next to each other.
 
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  
 
Remember  that  you can always reinsert the same piece  of  paper 
into the printer. You can print text onto magazine pages, to make 
invitations,  or  letters  onto Playboy  foldouts.  Be  creative. 
You're not Nancy Reagan.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .   

To put  graphics into 1st Word.  Just fool the  printer.  Make  a  
drawing,  print it out.  Run the paper throught the printer again  
for  the text.   Okay,   so it's not on  screen.   Pretend.  Some 
people  want everything.  It's a cheap solution that works.  Like 
beer.   

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  
 
A  little used,   but very practical ability of 1st Word  is  the  
conditional  page break.  There are three kinds of  page  breaks: 

     1) a soft  page break (which  1st  Word makes itself at  the 
     end  of the page,  this is a --- with a number below  it  in 
     the  left hand  window  edge.) 

     2) hard page  breaks,  which you set  yourself, a solid line 
     with a number below it (press either F7 or click once in the 
     left margin.  Click twice  on the number to remove.)
     
     3) the conditional  page break.  This is rarely  used;  most 
     don't  even know what it is.  And it is the best  one.  Make 
     this   by   dragging downwards in the left  side  along  the 
     paragraph  in  the  left side  of  the   window.  Remove  by 
     dragging upwards.   It looks like a dotted  line  across and 
     then downwards (see the side of this paragraph  on  screen). 
     This  function  is very useful when writing long  texts  and  
     you  don't want certain paragraphs or tables broken up  over 
     two pages.  It turns that paragraph or space into a  special 
     space which  will  not  be  separated  over  two  pages.  It 
     maintains that option,  regardless how many times you refor-
     mat or edit.  If you read the text to a new file, then those 
     commands are removed.   

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .   

You  can also print out Wordplus in Elite typeset,  at  NLQ,  and 
then  reduce  on   a photocopy machine  10-15%,  with  a  bit  of 
contrast.  This  produces an excellent page image,  as good as or 
better than office typewriters.

It's trouble to use the FONT TABLE.  Get KEYEDIT.PRG to  redefine 
your  keyboard layout (very easy to do,  requires no  programming 
knowlege).  KEYMACRO.ACC  will let you place macros  (strings  of 
text)  on a key so that pressing ALT+ the key will  produce  your 
address or whatever.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  

Printer  Drivers.   If you are having difficulties  in   printing  
with your printer (no Danish letters or no special commands  such 
as  italic)  then  just  try  other  printer  drivers.   Our   PD  
collection  has an enormous collection; make a test document with 
all  the  letters from the font plus special  commands.  Try  one 
driver after  the other,  usually one will fit.  Otherwise,  ask, 
maybe  there is someone in the group who made a driver  for  that 
printer. 

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .   

Just   because  a character appears in  your   FONT   table,   it  
doesn't  mean that your printer is going to like it.  Make  up  a 
test   text  of  all characters and see what  comes  out  of  the 
printer. 

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  

To make blocks in WORDPLUS,  you can start with a small one, then 
move the mouse to where the block should start or end:  point and 
double click.  You can also change the start/end of a block  just 
by  pointing  to where it should be  and  double  clicking.  Nice 
touch to the program. 

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 


It  is  not necessary to have 1st Word on the same disk  as   the  
text  file on which you are working.  When you load 1st  Word,  a 
copy   of  this program is put into the computer's  memory.   You 
can   now   take  out the disk.   The computer  doesn't  need  it 
anymore.   Put   in   the  text file and ask 1st Word to  open  a 
file.   It will  work  on  that file.   You can insert and remove 
disks as often as you  like;   your  text (in separate files) can 
be on several dozen  disks,   if  you like.  (OK,  so many of you 
know this. But there are some people  who don't.)  

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
   
Be   careful with the DELETE function in 1st  Word;   it's   very  
eager.   Sometimes,  if your mouse is floating over a file  name, 
and  the drive is working, for not much reason, the computer will 
think   that  it  is  a  double click and delete   whatever   the 
mouse  is  pointing  at,   especially if you just deleted a file. 
Keep  your  mouse away from the directory window and the OK  box.   
This  seems  to be a problem with the mouse and  drive.  If   the  
computer is in the process of opening a folder,   a futher  click 
is  intepreted  as a double click.  It does have a use,  however, 
if  you're quick,  then you can keep the drive running and  click 
in and  out of folders to see the directories.     

Another way to solve this is to change the mask on the  directory 
line.  For  example,  you  want to delete all the  backup  copies 
(those files ending with .BAK).  Instead of having A:/*.*,  which 
means  that  you  will see everything,  just change  it  to  show 
A:*.BAK   ;this will mean that only .BAK (Backup) files will  be 
shown;  then  you can just click away and delete the  whole  mess 
without worrying. 

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

WD+ has the annoying problem that it often can't read files which 
are not in its special format.  I kept a copy of the old 1ST WORD 
simply  because  of this.  There is a better  solution.  A  "code 
remover"  (such  as  AJAX.PRG) will remove or  strip  a  text  of 
special wordprocessing codes: you get straight text left, or just 
ASCII.  Wordplus  can then load this.  But how about those  texts 
which  you  can't reformat in WD+?  Use  CON_WP.PRG  (Convert  to 
Wordplus),  a German PD; any text from any wordprocessor or ASCII 
is converted to Wordplus format.  With these two small  programs, 
you can read any text file.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Some points about BLOCKS.  To create a block, just drag the mouse 
over the text you want. To change that block, just point to where 
the block should start or end and then double click. This resizes 
the block.

To  get rid of the block,  so that there is no more grey area  on 
screen,  just "create" a new block in a blank area (or make a new 
block which only covers one or two letters). Wordplus still can't 
think with more than one block.  It would be nice to have several 
blocks at the same time. 
   

                 End of Chapter Eight: Wordprocessing.

        ====================== * * ======================


That also marks the end of this manual for another Doc  Disk.  The 
fourth  and final part of the 'Second ST Manual' will be  featured 
soon,  possibly in Sewer Doc Disk Number 11,  to be released  very 
soon.
 





