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                        *  H  O  W  *  T  O  .  .  .  *

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                                GROW MARIJUANA!


                             How to grow Marijuana
                          courtesy of the Jolly Roger


DISCLAIMER: Like wow, man, this  is  a  really  heavy  thing, right. Cos, like,
            stuff's illegal in this police state,  right. And you'll, like, get
            some really brutal violence done to you by their fachist puppets if
            they find out, right. Anyway, like, not  all  of us are so with it,
            right. So like, it isn't what  we  all want, right. So, like, don't
            worry right, cos, like, you  don't  like  have  to  do any of this,
            right. Etc., etc., ..... [This man is now a merchant banker.]


Marijuana is a deciduous plant which  grows  from seeds. The fibrous section of
the plant was  (has  been  replaced  by  synthetics)  used  to  make  rope. The
flowering tops, leaves, seeds, and resin  of  the  plant  is used by just about
everyone to get HIGH.

Normally, the vegetable parts of the  plant  are smoked to produce this "high,"
but thay can also be eaten.  The  axtive  ingredient  in marijuana resin is THC
(tetahydrocannabinol). Marijuana contains from 1 -  4  per cent THC (4 per cent
must be considered GOOD dope).

Marijuana grows wild in many parts of  the  world, and is cultivated in Mexice,
Vietnam, Africa, Nepal, India, South  America,  etc.,etc. The marijuana sold in
the United States comes primarily from, yes, the Uniited States.

It is estimated that at  least  50  per  cent  of  the  grass on the streets in
America is homegrown. The  next  largest  bunch  comes  actoss the borders from
Mexico, with smaller  amounts  filtering  in  from  Panama,  occasionally South
America, and occasinally, Africa. Hashish  is  the  pure resin of the marijuana
plant, which is  scraped  from  the  flowering  tops  of  the  plant and lumped
together. Ganja is the ground-up tops  of  the  finest  plants. (It is also the
name given to any sort of marijuana in Jamaica.)

Marijuana will deteriorate in about two years if exposed to light, air or heat.
It should always be stored in  cool  places.  Grass prices in the United States
are a direct reflection of the laws of  supply and demand (and you thought that
high school economics would never be useful). A series of large border busts, a
short growing season, a bad crop, any  number  of things can drive the price of
marijuana up. Demand still seems to be  on  the increase in the U.S., so prices
seldom fall below last year's level.

Each year a small seasonal drought occurs,  as last year's supply runs low, and
next year's crop is not up  yet.  Prices  usually  rase  about 20 - 75 per cent
during this time  and  then  fall  back  to  "normal."  Unquestionably, a large
shortage of grass causes  a  percentage  of  smokers  to  turn  to harder drugs
instead. For this reason, no grass  control  program  can ever be beneficial or
"successful."


                                   GROW IT!

There is one surefire way of avoiding high prices and the grass DT's: Grow your
own. This is not as difficult as  some  "authorities" on the subject would make
you believe. Marijuana is a weed, and  a  fairly  vivacious one at that, and it
will grow almost in spite of you.


                                   OUTDOORS

Contrary to propular belief,  grass  grows  well  in  many  place  on the North
American continent. It will flourish  even  if  the  temperature does not raise
above 75 degrees.

The plants do need a minimum of eight  hours  of sunlight per day and should be
planted in late April/early May, BUT  DEFINITELY,  after  the last frost of the
year.

Growing an outdoor, or "au naturel", crop  has been the favored method over the
years, because grass seems to grow better without as much attention when in its
natural habitat.

Of course, an outdoors setting  requires  special precautions not encoun- tered
with an indoors crop;  you  must  be  able  to  avoid  detection, both from law
enforcement freaks and common freaks,  both  of  whom  will  take your weed and
probably use it. Of course, one will also arrest you. You must also have access
to the area to prepare the soil and  harvest the crop. There are two schools of
thought about starting the seeds. One  says  you should start the seedlings for
about ten days in an  indoor  starter  box  (see  the  indoor section) and then
transplant. The other theory is that you  should just start them in the correct
location. Fewer plants will come up with this  method, but there is no shock of
transplant to kill some of the seedlings halfway through.

The soil should be preprepared  for  the  little  devils  by  turning it over a
couple of times and adding about one  cup  of  hydrated lime per square yard of
soil and a little  bit  (not  too  much,  now)  of  good water soluble nitrogen
fertilizer. The soil should now be watered  several times and left to sit about
one week.

The plants should be planted at least  three feet apart, getting too greedy and
stacking them too close will  result  in  stunted  plants. The plants like some
water during their growing season, BUT  not  too  much. This is especially true
around the roots, as too much water will rot the root system.

Grass grows well in corn  or  hops,  and  these  plants  will help provide some
camouflage. It does not  grow  well  with  rye,  spinach,  or pepperweed. It is
probally a good idea to plant in many  small, broken patches, as people tend to
notice patterns.


                             GENERAL GROWING INFO

Both the male and he female plant  produce  THC resin, although the male is not
as strong as the female. In a good crop, the male will still be plenty smokable
and should not be thrown away  under  any  circumstances. Marijuana can reach a
hight of twenty feet (or would you rather wish on a star) and obtain a diameter
of 4 1/2 inches. If normal, it has  a  sex  ratio of about 1:1, but this can be
altered in several ways.

The male plant dies in the 12th week of growing, the female will live another 3
- 5 weeks to produce her  younguns.  Females  can  weigh twice as much as males
when they are mature.

Marijuana soil should compact when you squeeze  it, but should also break apart
with a small pressure and absorb water  well.  A nice test for either indoor or
outdoor growing is to add a bunch of  worms  to the soil, if they live and hang
aroung, it is good soil, but if  they  don't,  well, change it. Worms also help
keep the soil loose enough for the plants to grow well.


                                     SEEDS

To get good grass, you should start with the right seeds. A nice starting point
is to save the seeds form the best batch you have consumed. The seeds should be
virile, that is, they should not be  grey  and shiriveled up, but green, meaty,
and healthy appearing. A nice test is to drop the seeds on a hot frying pan. If
they "CRACK," they are probably good for planting purposes.

The seeds should be soaked  in  distilled  water  overnight before planting. BE
SURE to plant in the ground  with  the  pointy  end  UP. Plant about 1/2" deep.
Healthy seeds will sprout in about five days.


                                   SPROUTING

The best all around sprouting method  is  probably  to make a sprouting box (as
sold in nurseries) with a slated bottom or use paper cups with holes punched in
the bottoms. The sprouting soil should  be  a  mixture of humus, soil, and five
sand with a bit of organic fertilizer and  water mixed in about one week before
planting.

When ready to transplant, you must be sure  and leave a ball of soil around the
roots of each plant. This whole ball  is  dropped into a baseball-sized hold in
the permanent soil.

If you are growing/transplanting indoors,  you  should  use  a green safe light
(purchased at  nurseries)  during  the  transplanting  operation.  If  you  are
transplanting outdoors, you should  time  it  about  two  hours befor sunset to
avoid damage to the plant. Always  wear  cotton  gloves when handling the young
plants.

After the plants are set in the hole, you  should water them. It is also a good
idea to use a commercial transplant  chemical  (also purchased at nurseries) to
help then overcome the shock.


                                INDOOR GROWING

Indoor growing has many advantages, besides  the  apparent fact that it is much
harder to have your crop "found,"  you  can control the ambient conditions just
exactly as you want them and get a guaranteed "good" plant.

Plants grown indoors will not appear  the  same  as their outdoor cousins. They
will be scrawnier appearing with a weak  stems  and may even require you to tie
them to a growing post to remain  upright,  BUT  THEY WILL HAVE AS MUCH OR MORE
RESIN!

If growing in a room, you  should  put  tar  paper  on  the floors and then buy
sterilized bags of soil form a nursery.  You  will need about one cubic foot of
soil for each plant.

The plants will need about 150 ml. of  water per plant/per week. They will also
need fresh air, so the room must  be ventilated. (however, the fresh air should
contain NO TOBACCO smoke.)

At least eight hours of  light  a  day  must  be  provided. As you increase the
light, the plants grow faster and  show  more females/less males. Sixteen hours
of light per day seems to be the  best combination, beyond this makes little or
no appreciable difference in the  plant  quality.  Another idea is to interrupt
the night cycle with about one hour of light. This gives you more females.

The walls of your growing room should be painted white or covered with aluminum
foil to reflect the light.

The lights themselves can be either bulbs of fluorescent. Figure about 75 watts
per plant or one plant per  two  feet  of flouresent tube. The fluorescents are
the best, but do not use  "cool  white"  types.  The light sources should be an
average of twenty inches from the plant  and  NEVER closer than 14 inches. They
may be mounted on a rack
 and moved every few days as the plants grow.

The very best light sources are  those  made  by Sylvania and others especially
for growing plants (such as the "gro lux" types).


                             HARVESTING AND DRYING

The male plants will be  taller  and  have  about  five green or yellow sepals,
which will split open to  fertilize  the  female  plant with pollen. The female
plant is shorter and has a  small  pistillate flower, which really doesn't look
like a flower at all but rather a small bunch of leaves in a cluster.

If you don't want any seeds, just  good  dope, you should pick the males before
they shed their pollen as the female  will  use  some  of her resin to make the
seeds.

After another three to five weeks, after  the  males are gone, the females will
begin to wither and die (from loneliness?),  this  is the time to pick. In some
nefarious Middle Eastren countries, farmers  reportedly put their beehives next
to fiels of marijuana. The  little  devils  collect  the grass pollen for their
honey, which is supposed to contain a fair dosage of THC.

The honey is then enjoyed by conventional methods or made into ambrosia. If you
want seeds - let the males shed  his  pollen  then  pick him. Let the female go
another month and pick her.

To cure the plants, they must be dried. On large crops, this is accomplished by
constructing a drying box or drying room.

You must have a heat source (such  as  an  electric heater) which will make the
box/room each 130 degrees. The  box/room  must  be  ventilated to carry off the
water-vapor-laden air and replace it with fresh.  A good box can be constructed
from an orange crate with fiberglass  insulated  walls,  vents in the tops, and
screen shelves to hold the leaves.  There  must  be a baffle between the leaves
and the heat source. A quick cure for  smaller  amounts is to: cut the plant at
the soil level and wrap it in a  cloth  so  as not to loose any leavs. Take out
any seeds by hand and store. Place all the leaves on a cookie sheet or aluminum
foil and put them in the middle sheld of  the oven, which is set on "broil." In
a few seconds, the leaves will  smoke  and  curl  up, stir them around and give
another ten seconds before you take them out.


                          TO INCREASE THE GOOD STUFF

There are several tricks to increase the  number of females, or the THC content
of plants:

You can make the plants mature in  36  days  if  you are in a hurry, by cutting
back on the light to about 14  hours,  but  the  plants will not be as big. You
should gradually shorten the light cycle until you reach fourteen hours.

You can stop any watering as the  plants  begin  to  bake the resin rise to the
flowers. This will increse the resin a bit.

You can use a sunlamp on the plants as they begin to develop flower stalks. You
can snip off the flower, right at the spot  where it joins the plant, and a new
flower will form in a couple of weeks.

This can be repeated two or three times  to get several times more flowers than
usual.

If the plants are sprayed with Ethrel  early  in their growing stage, they will
produce almost all female plants. This usually speeds up the flowering also, it
may happen in as little as two weeks.

You can employ a growth changer called  colchicine.  This  is a bit hard to get
and expensive. (Should be ordered through  a  lab  of some sort and costs about
$35 a gram.)

To use the colchicine, you should prepare your presoaking solution of distilled
water with about 0.10 per cent colchicine. This will cause many of the seeds to
die and not germinate, but the ones  that  do come up will be polyploid plants.
This is the accepted  difference  between  such  strains  as  "gold" and normal
grass, and yours will DEFINITELY be superweed.

The problem here is that colchicine is a  posion in larger quanities and may be
poisonous  in  the  first  generation   of   plants.   Bill  Frake,  author  of
CONNOISSEUR'S HANDBOOK OF MARIJUANA runs  a  very complete colchicine treatment
down and warns against  smoking  the  first  generation  plants (all succeeding
generations will also be polyploid) bacause of this poisonous quality.

However,  the  Medical  Index  shows  colchicine  being  given  in  very  small
quantities  to  people  for  treatment  if  various  ailments.  Although  these
quantities are small, they would appear to  be larger than any you could recive
form smoaking a seed-treated plant.

It would be a good idea to buy a  copy of CONNOISSEUR'S, if you are planning to
attempt this, and read Mr. Drake's complete instructions.

Another still-experimental process to increase  the  resin  it to pinch off the
leaf tips as soon as they appear  from  the  time  the plant is in the seedling
stage on through its  entire  life-span.  This  produces  a distorted, wrecked-
looking plant which would  be  very  difficuly  to  recognize  as marijuana. Of
course, there is less substance to this  plant, but such wrecked creatures have
been known to produve so much resin that it crystallizes a strong hash all over
the surface of the plant - might be wise  to  try  it on a plant or two and see
what happens.


                              PLANT PROBLEM CHART

Always check the overall enviromental  conditions  prior  to passing judgment -
soil aroung 7 pH or slightly less  -  plenty  of water, light, fresh air, loose
soil, no water standing in pools.

        SYMPTOM                         PROBABLY PROBLEM/CURE

Larger leaves turning yellow -          Nitrogen dificiency - add
smaller leaves still green.             nitrate of soda or organic fertilizer.

Older leaves will curl at edges,        Phosphorsus dificiency -
turn dark, possibaly with a purple      add commercial phosphate.
cast.

Mature leaves develop a yellowish       Magnesium dificiency -
cast to least veinal areas.             add commercial fertilizer
                                        with a magnesium content.

Mature leaves turn yellow and then      Potassium dificiency -
become spotted with edge areas          add muriate of potash.
turning dark grey.

Cracked stems, no healthy support       Boron dificiency - add
tissue.                                 any plant food containing boron.

Small wrinkled leaves with              Zinc dificiency - add
yelloish vein systems.                  commercial plant food
                                        containing zinc.

Young leaves become deformed,           Molybedum dificiency -
possibaly yellowing.                    use any plant food with a
                                        bit of molydbenum in it.


                                EXTRA SECTION:
                              BAD WEED/GOOD WEED

Can you turn bad weed into good  weed?  Surprisingly enough, the answer to this
oft-asked inquiry is, yes!

Like most other things in life, the amount  of good you are going to do relates
directly to how much effort you are going to put into it. There are no instant,
supermarket products which you can spray  on Kansas catnip and have wonderweed,
but there are a number of  simplified, inexpensive processes (Gee, Mr. Wizard!)
thich will enhance mediocre grass somewhat,  and  there  are a couple of fairly
involved processes which will  do  up  even  almost-parsley weed into something
worth writing home about.


                                     EASES

1.  Place the dope in a container  which  allows  air  to enter in a restricted
    fashion (such as a can with nail holes  punched in its lid) and add a bunch
    of dry ice, and the place the whold  shebang in the freezer for a few days.
    This process will add a certain amount  of potency to the product, however,
    this only works with dry ice, if  you use normal, everyday freezer ice, you
    will end up with a soggy mess...

2.  Take a quantity of  grass  and  dampen  it,  place  in  a baggie or another
    socially acceptable container, and store it in  a dark, dampish place for a
    couple of weeks (burying it also seems  to  work). The grass will develop a
    mold which tastes a bit  harsh,  a  and  burns  a  tiny bit funny, but does
    increase the potency.

3.  Expose the grass to the high intensity light of a sunlamp for a full day or
    so. Personally, I don't feel that this is worth the effort, but if you just
    spent $400 of your friend's money for this brick of super-Colombian, right-
    from-the-President's-personal-stash, and it turns out  to be Missouri weed,
    and you're packing your bags  to  leave  town  before the people arrive for
    their shares, well, you might at least try it. Can't hurt.

4.  Take the undisirable portions of our stash (stems, seeds, weak weed, worms,
    etc.) and place them in a covered  pot, with enough rubbing alchol to cover
    everything.

Now CAREFULLY boil the mixture on an  ELECTRIC  stove or lab burner. DO NOT USE
GAS - the alchol is too flammable. After 45 minutes of heat, remove the pot and
strain the solids out, SAVING THE ALCOHOL.

Now, repeat the process with  the  same  residuals,  but fresh alchol. When the
second boil is over, remove  the  solids  again,  combine the two quantities of
alcohol and reboil until you have a syrupy mixture.

Now, this syrupy mixture will contain  much  of  the THC formerly hidden in the
stems and such. One simply takes this  syrup the throughly combines it with the
grass that one wishes to improve upon.


                  SPECIAL SECTION ON RELATED SUBJECT MARYGIN:

Marygin is an anagram of the words marijuana and gin, as in Eli Whitney. [Well,
that shows how fuckin' good you are at English then, doesn't it? -EGBSS!] It is
a plastic tumbler which acts much like a commercial cottin gin. One takes about
one ounce of an harb and breaks it  up.  This is then placed in the Marygin and
the protuding knod is roatated.  This  action  turns  the internal wheel, which
separates the grass from the debris (seeds, stems).

It does not pulberize the grass as screens  have a habit of doing and is easily
washable.

Marygin is available from:
        P.O. Box 5827
        Tuscon, Arizona 85703
        $5.00

        GRASS
        Edmund Scientific Company
        555 Edscorp Building
        Barrington, New Jersy 08007

    Free Catalog is a wonder  of  good  things  for the potential grass grower.
They have an electric  thermostat  greenhouse  for  starting  plants for a mere
$14.95.

    Soil test kits for PH - $2.40

    Al test - $9.95

    Soil thermometer - $2.75

    Lights which approzimate the true color balance of the sun and are probably
the most beneficial types available: 40 watt, 48 inch - 4 for $15.75.

    Indoor sun bulb, 75 or 150 watt  -  $5.75.  And, they have a natural growth
regualtor for plants (Gibberellin) which  can  change height, speed growth, and
maturity, promote blossoming, etc. Each  plant  reacts differently to treatment
with Gibberellin...there's no fun like experimenting - $2.00


                               SUGGESTED READING

THE CONNOISSEUR'S HANDBOOK OF MARIJUANA, Bill Drake Straight Arrow Publishing -
$3.50 625 Third Street San Francisco, California

FLASH P.O.Box  16098  San  Fransicso,  California  94116  Stocks  a  series  of
pamphlets on grass, dope manufacture, cooking. Includes the Mary Jane Superweed
series.

